Written by Al Pepper - https://alanpepper.wordpress.com/

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Trotting along and chatting away to a running buddy of mine, Garry, we took a right, dropping down from Ripponden Bank Top and along a small track. We’d been catching up on our most recent races and I’d asked Garry about the upcoming Fellsman I’d entered. His response was well I’ve been there done that and drawn a line under it! I noted a sense of that he probably wouldn’t do it again.

At that particular moment we were running in the Calderdale, another tough event and especially this year as the route was a new one with much added excitement and even bigger climbs.

We did eventually finish the Calderdale after much shuffling and swearing and it turned out to be a cracking well organised event and another one I shall return to each year.

18:20. It was excellent to be back in Threshfield and it always feels like home as I do seem to spend quite some time running around there. I’d been there a few months earlier and run the Wharfedale Off Road Half Marathon route with Henry (Our Springer). It did feel quite strange being there without Henry especially as he normally rides shotgun and howls for most of the way there before we run and then sleeps in the back of the van all the way back!

Anyway I digress, it was a brief walk to the school (Race HQ) for signing in and kit checks at 18:30. I’d arrived early and tied up with a couple of fellow Spine Challengers, David and Johnathon.

Off to the kit check and was surprised to see another Spine legend ‘Tom Jones’ helping out with the kit checks.

It was apparent that the Fellsman was a well-established race and similar to the Spine race it too had a friendly running family feel about it. I’d retired back to my newly fitted out van to re-pack my kit, eat as much food as possible and settle in to watch a film and of course have the obligatory couple of cans of Guinness. I drifted off listening to the sound of rain hitting the van roof wondering what tomorrow would bring

05something or another. Whatever, it was it was early! I re-packed my kit yet again(putting some more warm layers in) and got ready to go and catch the coach to the start line in Ingleton. On arrival we were greeted with a downpour, some smiling marshals then promptly issued with the iconic Fellsman Tally. The tally is a round disc with 24 checkpoint locations around the edge. At each CP you get it punched and nowadays in the world of modern technology it also has an electronic tag that you swipe at most CPs and it records you having being there. I’d seen pictures of the Tally before but I wasn’t quite sure if I was glad or not to actually have one hanging around my neck and about to face collecting a full house of punches on it. The route is around 61 miles (more if your navigation is slightly out) with 11,000 feet of climbing. As a warm up at the beginning it takes in two of the Yorkshire 3 peaks (Ingleborough and Whernside) followed by many of the tallest summits in the Dales eventually finishing back at Threshfield.

With a bit of banter between us and a difficult decision of waterproof on or waterproof off we started. I’d opted for a windproof jacket instead of waterproof and thought I’d save that for later just in case the weather got worse. How little we knew about what we were about to encounter.

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Ingleborough was upon us and after a long slog in the cloud and drizzle to the summit it was the first CP punch on the tally

The weather at the summit was slightly harsh to say the least and saw to it that we all got a good battering by the wind. Dropping down along the NW side of Ingleborough gave us a full view of Whernside covered by cloud. Just after the Hill Inn CP the rain came down with anger assisted by strong winds and an icy cold feel to it. It was definitely waterproof on time! The climb up Whernside was cloaked in mist and went on forever to the summit. This was a climb to do quickly as the weather had really taken a turn for the worse. Second CP punch at the summit and the long boggy descent with a river crossing thrown in towards the Kingsdale CP. After a mug of hot sugary tea and several chocolate biscuits dunked in it now was the time to push on the summit of Gragareth. Nother summit and another punch on the tally at the Gragareth CP. The weather had now decided we needed a little snow and more wind just in time for the traverse across the high ridge to the Great Coum CP. This was becoming less enjoyable with now endless knee deep bogs that threatened to suck your very feet from your lower legs. I was busy bog hopping when I caught up with another racer who was taking a rather more tentative approach to the whole matter and was busy measuring the depth of each bog with a walking pole before he attempted to cross it. He was prodding each bog with his pole like a master swordsman before jumping across. I slowed and watched with interest and also thought if he disappears up to his neck in it I’ll take a different route. However, he stabbed his pole in the ground and it promptly sunk up to the handle. This would have indicated to him that the bog was quite deep and to find a different route but unfortunately with the method he was using he proceeded to follow the pole into the bog. Head First! He eventually reappeared holding his now banana shaped pole and looking like the creature from the black lagoon. A few of us picked him up and I chose not to take that particular route before continuing with my bog hopping routine in a different direction. The weather was now biblical and reminiscent of the Spine race on the side of Pen-Y-Gent. It was a long long way to Great Coum but the relief of dropping down through Flinter Gill then eventually reaching the larger CP at the village of Dent was enough to drive me on.

At some point along this part of the route I came across another runner who seemed to be limping. I slowed down and asked if he was ok? He was actually quite cheery under the circumstances but pointed out that he’d lost one of his shiny new Salomon Speedcross 3 shoes in one of the recently mentioned bogs and he was retiring.

I’d promised myself a decent stop for 5 minutes at Dent and was warmly greeted by some hippies in a tent handing out hot sausage rolls and tea. It was heaven and I managed four large sausage rolls and several mugs of tea. Needless to say the hippies (marshals in fancy dress) were happy to oblige handing out the savoury delights to us wet a freezing racers. One prominent thing that I’d noticed was just how many people had pulled out and were sitting wrapped in foil blankets on the fun bus patiently waiting to be taken back to Threshfield.

I had to get moving before I either froze or ate all of the sausage rolls. The weather was changing and it had stopped raining, there was even a glimmer of sunshine poking through. Proceeding up towards Blea Moor CP I decided to make myself into a clothes line and steadily pushed on with most of my damp and wet clothing hanging off me with the hopes of drying out before nightfall.

The next character I met was Justin who was struggling a little with his knees and had had a bit of a moment just before I’d caught him up. He’d not attempted this distance before but had done the Haworth Hobble a few months prior as his first ultra. We chatted and decided to stick together for the next few CPs.

Justin had done a route reccy for the majority of the Fellsman and clearly had good knowledge of what we were likely to face through the night.

As we passed thought the next large CP at Stonehouse it was more tea and this time pasta and cake with more tea. I also think that this was served to us by either elves or santa clause. Whatever, they made us most welcome and the temptation to sit in the warmth of the tent nearly got me so I stood outside in the cold and filled my face instead.

On the Fellsman at nightfall or last light individuals are grouped at certain CPs as a safety measure and myself and Justin had decided that we should stick together and drop into a group with similar pace. This eventually happened on reaching the Redshaw CP. The journey to Redshaw CP passing through and up and over Great Knoutberry was hard going with soaked ground and more bogs.

Redshaw CP was again an oasis in the world of cold damp mud. However, the skies were clear and it looked like being a fantastic clear evening. Inside the CP I was greeted by Tom Jones ( a legend of the Spine Race) and he quickly made me a cup of hot sugary tea and directed me towards the hot dogs. We chatted briefly before I yet again headed outside so as not to get too comfy. Justin talked to a friend who was at the CP whilst I had noticed a bit of a niggle in my left lower leg so I got some Kinesio tape out and strapped it up.

Eventually we were made part of a group and would stay together until the ungrouping at the penultimate CP at Yarnbury. There was seven of us, Myself and Justin an American lady (Alison) and guy that had done the Fellsman 37 times (Ted), A lovely couple from Ipswich and another guy who I believe was called Ibby and Italian? We all seemed to be similar pace.

We left Redshaw CP and headed off towards Snaizholme CP that was only just over a mile away but what was now a bit of a theme was that just a mile on the Fellsman is neither easy or straightforward. However, we were rewarded with an absolutely stunning sunset as we passed through Snaizeholme and onto Dodd Fell.

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I was reminiscing in my head about the last time I’d passed through here on the Spine CR and just how much colder it had been. We bagged Dodd Fell and dropped down to Fleet Moss CP and this time we’d made a decision to stay a little longer and get warm. The temperature outside was rapidly dropping and I already noticed ice on my pack when I removed it. More tea and I’d decided to eat a couple of pork pies that I’d brought along with me. They were like rocks! So I packed them inside my jacket with the hopes they would thaw out by the next major CP.

Navigation from here on would be a challenge but having Ted along with us who had done this 37 times would definitely be an asset.

We left the warmth and smiling faces of the CP and entered a starry night to be confronted by plummeting temperatures.

Middle tong CP was our next target. Now at this time any specific fence crossing points were indicated by red flashing beacons and they were to be our navigational points. Using compass. Map and gps backup we eventually found Middle Tong CP. It had been hard going as none of this was paths but as a bonus the bogs had now frozen up.

Our next CP was an aptly named ‘Hells Gap’. It certainly was Hell and it had definitely froze over.

You’ve got to feel for the CP marshals who had been out there for hours in a tent patiently waiting for racers to pass by and also wait for the last person. Outstanding effort.

Cray CP was to be our next large CP and it was a welcome sight and a chance to warm up. I even sat down in there too! This time I treated myself to hot chocolate and tea…..both in the same cup. And my pork pies had warmed up so I downed them together with a ‘Power Cookie’ topped off with a tramadol and a caffeine tablet.

I also put nearly all my layers on as I’d started to shake a little bit just before the CP. Off again into the darkness leaving the happy bunch of marshals behind with one or two not so happy racers who had been completely frozen and exhausted.

Buckden Pike was one of our final large summits and it more than made up for it with what seemed like a near vertical path (it probably wasn’t). Again it went on for an eternity and was relentless but just as a teaser we could occasionally see the flashing read beacon light at the CP on the top.

Eventually we reached it and again was greeted by a marshal in a tent who was happy and smiling, sort of.

The next little tricky bit of navigation was to find the CP at Top Mere. If my memory serves me right it was quite well hidden and took us a little bit of time to find it. The going under foot was still tough and instead of deep bogs we had frozen peat bogs to climb up and down and clumps of heather to constantly fall over.

We could make out the CP at Park Rash and I thought I’d made a mistake as I could see head torches coming towards us leaving the CP. In reality they should have been going away from us!

In the warmth of the Park Rash CP all became clear. The group in front of us had missed the Top Mere CP. Every credit to them for going back to find it and not pulling out.

Meanwhile I was busy putting more layers on. My plan had worked out and all my layers had dried earlier in the day so I was one happy camper and extremely warm. We spent about 20 minutes eating, drinking and chatting to the marshals before once more heading out into the decreasing darkness.

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It was almost sunrise as we made our ascent onto Great Whernside. This was our last big climb and it certainly knew how to spoil us.

I was sure that my legs had been lost several miles earlier and they had been substitutedwith a couple of fence posts.

No matter what the difficulty was or just how painful it was we had the honour of seeing the sunrise on what was to be a glorious start to the day and that seemed to put everything into perspective. By the time we had reached the summit of Great Whernside it was spectacular and the feeling of elation and that it was nearly all downhill together with we only had two more punches to collect before the finish. It surely was a bit overwhelming. We pushed on downhill and I’d been intending on making it back within 24hrs and it was still a possibility.

Down through Capplestone Gate CP and pressing onto Yarnbury CP the ground had now become as Justin described it a ‘Fairway’ (well he was into his golf). We were de-grouped at Yarnbury and it was a free for all back to the finish. Myself and Justin started speed walking as initially the hard tarmac road was painful and unforgiving compared to the last few miles of pasture land we had crossed.

Anyway I announced that it could possibly be done and we could be back within 24hrs. With that we broke into a very gentle trot down through Grassington.

I had to slow down as the pain in my right leg was just immense and was like being stabbed each time my foot hit the ground. Justin went on ahead as did the couple from Ipswich whilst I hobbled my way through the village centre to be applauded by two elderly gentlemen sat on a bench at the edge of the village square. Out of Grassington I knew I’d cross the river then up into Threshfield and home. I saw another group of racers in front and told my legs to ‘man the F up’ as we are overtaking them so off I went running past and up the hill towards the school knowing that I was within two minutes of finishing.

Several more people applauded and one guy wished me all the best and said he’d seen me at various CPs as he’d been following the race around all day and night. Rounding the corner for the last few hundred meters a motorcyclist gave me a high five as he was passing and shouted well done.

That was it! Before I knew it I’d entered the school and finished. I parted with my Fellsman Tally and handed it over to prove my journey and that I’d finished. Justin was waiting sat on a nearby chair, so we exchanged congratulations before I headed off to find more sugary tea. I’m not sure if I was within the 24hrs but I’m sure I’ll find out soon.

It’s funny that after that last bit of energy and expenditure and managing to run to the finish I was now struggling to drag myself back to my van in the car park.

The sun was now high in the sky and providing a warming glow. I managed to get my shoes off, sent a text to Liz letting her know I’d finished then sat for about twenty minutes reflecting on the race and wriggling my toes in the slightly damp but cool wet grass, it was heaven.

So there we are. That was the Fellsman. If you’ve read this and done it then you’ll know what I mean when I say it’s something that’ll get into your head. If you’ve not done it then go and do it, I promise you’ll not be disappointed with yourself when you hand over that fully punched Fellsman Tally back at the finish. A fantastic well organised friendly race.

Finally a big thanks to everyone who helps to organise and make the Fellsman work. Your incredible people who give up your time and comfort to allow people like us to indulge in a sport we love.

Thanks to all my friends and family who support me and give me encouragement to keep going, it really does mean a lot to me. But most of all thanks to Liz for her continued support, looking after me and putting up with my crazy world.

Thank You

AP

PS, Get out and go and do stuff!!