Written by Robert Jones - http://ultrarunningphoenix.blogspot.fr
Uphill, downhill, cross a river... repeat! This was my summary of the Spine Challenger 48 miles and 16 hours into the race at Hebden Bridge and after in excess of 100 river crossings.
Let's back track a little to how I got here. It was Jan 2014 and I was out for dinner and a few beers with some buddies - later that evening in a drunken haze I signed up for the Spine Challenger - a 112 mile race along the Pennine Way from Edale to Hawes. The "baby" version of the full 268 mile Spine race. It was c. 1 month later when a friend and fellow runner Simon Triscott also signed up. The race was on!
So there were found ourselves at 06.29am in a field in Edale waiting for the race to start. At 06.30 the wind and rain started on cue - and a few minutes later the race started. Off we trundled as Marcus, Ed and the rest of the racing snakes blazed a trail ahead of us...
The weather going up Jacob's Ladder and onto Kinder could only be described as "apocalyptic". We were left in no doubt as to what we would be facing for the next c. 40 hours. After 30 mins of "racing" we were forced to stop as I took shelter behind a wall and dug out my ski goggles (in an effort to stop my contact lenses from being ripped out my eyes by the wind)!
Over Kinder plateau the wind was so strong it was knocking people off their feet and Kinder Downfall had turned into Kinder Upfall - quite a sight and drenching us in the process!
On we ploughed to the first road crossing at Snake Pass, where we were unexpectedly met by one of our running friends Zoe who had come out to cheer us on. A nice surprise and a little lift at that early stage!
Up through Devil's Dike and on to Bleaklow Head - as we descended into Torside Reservoir the sun briefly came out for a few minutes and lifted our spirits.
This was to be our first meet point with Nick, Simon's brother and our support crew for the weekend. At this point I have to stop and say that without Nick we would not have finished - he was a legend all weekend. There is a lot of debate within the Spine family about supported v unsupported - for us it undoubtedly made a difference - probably more mentally than physically. The fact that Nick also wore shorts and flip flops all weekend in rain / sleet / snow kept us and our fellow competitors amused! He was also on hand to help out other competitors - be it with a cup of tea, food or a warm car to take shelter in! In the run up to the event I had also been worried about leaving Caoimhe, my wife, who is 4 months pregnant. The fact that Nick could provide her with updates (and vice versa) allowed me to relax, feel less selfish and focus on the task at hand. Legend! He was also texting updates to our wives at each point he met us - example one:
"They came down the path, not long after I'd arrived at the layby. Turbo boiled curry (actually, luke warm smelly slop) was ingested quickly, lucozade sport was downed, topped up crisps, snacks, sweets, gone... They're both looking well, it's not very warm but at least it stopped raining."
Off we went with a spring in our step. As we climbed the views back over Bareholme Moss and the Bleaklow tablelands were glorious. As we continued on to Wessenden Head the winds picked up and the going got tougher - however it was not long before we reached the road and Nick for another quick food stop.
Nicks update from Wessenden after about 7.5 hours of "racing":
"Temp = 2 degrees @ resupply 2. Rob & Simon said it was the toughest bit yet, with very strong winds. Chicken burger & chips each, not keen for too much more bulky water. They crossed the road from the car park, went through the gate and disappeared in the dip beyond. Both looking well and hopefully now a bit warmer."
As darkness and the weather closed in we continued to pass countless reservoirs and on to Standedge - making good time. Another brief meet up with Nick and the head torches went on as darkness started to fall.
Nick's update from Standedge:
"Car thermometer says 7degs but there's a few snowflakes wisping around. Simon says snow isn't melting though. Very quick resupply, crisps and swig of hot choc for Rob, hot choc & pancake for Simon, 2 minute stop, now they've crossed the road and has gone out of sight, 200m away, over the brow of the hill. Slightly less strong winds, still warm from chips earlier and not needing warmer clothes yet. It almost completely overcast, getting dark....".
The next section to the M62 all blended into one. It was dark, cold and windy. We crossed Blackstone Edge shortly thereafter without incident and felt good. We briefly stopped in at The White House pub for tea and a muffin (provided by the wonderful Spine support team)... and were then off back into the cold. Neither of us wanted to spend too long in the pub... too warm and lovely and the temptation would have been to stay!
Up to this point we had been navigational error free. At Stoodley Pike of all places we managed to go off track and ended up wandering around for 15 mins in bog trying to find the damned path! The amazing thing is that this is the exact spot where we got lost doing our recce over the summer! It was also at Stoodley Pike that we got overtaken by the full Spiners. We had been going for c. 14 hours at this point - they had been going for c. 9 hours! Amazing!
After about 16 hours and 48 miles we made it to a key milestone - CP1 at Hebden. Our plan here was to get in and out as fast as possible and so we did, making the climb back out CP1 (evil planning) and meeting Nick at the top of the road. Nicks update from Hebden:
"Back up to the car from cp1, New, dry socks, hot drinks, hot food , (simon jalfrezi, rob Bolognese, it's amazing what you'll eat if you're hungry!). Check maps, de-rubbish, additional layers, new head torch batteries, top up snacks & they're off again. Not as cold as it was, but they were keen to do the next stage (4 -6 hours) until maybe having a rest."
Off into the night we went. The whole of the second half of the route was going to be new to us as we had run out of time to recce the route! Useful as most of it would also be done in darkness!
As we left Hebden the snow started to fall and settle - it was beautiful and still and one of the best bits of the race. Whilst our chances of slipping on frozen slabs and tracks increased the going was good and we made good time.
It was also at this point that we first "teamed up" with Seb, one of the other Challengers. We were to end up doing most of the second half of the race with Seb and he was to prove a vital cog in our wheel as the race progressed. We met Nick somewhere near Oakworth Moor:
"To Oakworth, random road siding because the designated resupply place turned out to be someone's driveway #planning. Tracking the guys, they started this stage slowly but clearly accelerated when it flattened out along the edge of 2 lakes, because they arrived inside 4 hours and hence are 1h45 ahead of schedule. Confusingly, three lights approached me from the distance that I thought was Rob & Simon because the groups & individual participants are quite spread out now. It turns out, being thoroughly sociable chaps, that they've made a friend. Seb is from hounslow and was perhaps the motivation they needed to decide not to stop and sleep here. Hot tea & porridge for Rob, hot choc & snacks for si, hot choc & haribo for Seb, they plodded off up the hill. Seb: "if we keep up this pace guys, we're on for a pre-midnight finish"."
The next few hours waiting for daylight to come up were tough. We got lost on random moorland, we had to climb fences as we went wrong and the stage just seemed to go on for ever. What was particularly irksome was following a track alongside a wall or fence only to realise 10-15 mins later that you were on the wrong side of said wall / fence. Thus ensued a rather painful climb, sometimes also involving barbed wire. Lovely at 5am in the dark!
Our pace was so slow that Nick came out to try and meet us. He scared the shit out of me. Imagine the scene. It is 5.30am, pitch black, middle of nowhere and you turn to your left in a field and notice a figure standing dead still just watching you. After pointing it out and checking with Seb that I wasn't hallucinating we decided that it was either (a) a scarecrow or (b) a lunatic / serial killer. Then the figure moved... Nicks viewpoint on this incident:
"Getting tough. I parked up between last supply point and the next and walked towards si, Rob & seb. Tracker progress showed a slower pace. When I met them, I was stood still in a field, Rob thought he was hallucinating. (sorry, it was a bit mean of me). Simon has broken a pole, bit annoying but not essential for the next bit. Repair will be difficult. It'll be getting light in an hour, they've requested milkshakes... Seb set off before them, i think he's on a mission."
The next major landmark for us was Lothersdale - c. 65 miles and c. 25 hours into the race. Whilst daylight had come we were beginning to tire and decided we needed a slightly longer rest (and Simon wanted a power nap). Seb ploughed on as he was getting cold and felt good. Simon went to sleep in the back of the car and I sat and enjoyed croissants and strawberry milkshake! Cracking breakfast.
Update from Nick:
"Shhhh. At the Dog & duck, coach & horses, or Fox and whatever. Strawberry milkshakes and croissants, not so much for breakfast, more for the next course. They came down the hill with seb again, not too quickly but a fair pace. Immediately slumped down, Simon needed a rest. Be werry werry quiet.
Rob was of course alert and ready throughout."
With daylight and some rest came a renewed sense of vigour - we even managed some actual "running". It sounds silly but daylight makes such a big difference - your mood is better, navigation is easier and you have more than just the little circle of light in front of you to look at! In no time at all we had reached Gargrave after c. 28 hours and 70 miles. We also caught up with Seb.
Nicks update at Gargrave:
"End in sight. A muddy slog into gargrave took a bit longer than had been hoped, but a thorough drying of feet and a change of socks later, the guys sat down to an early hot lunch of curry & chilli. They were keen to know how far to next stop to measure how much to eat, precise weather forecast to get clothing exactly right and they are more decisive than ever about how much water to take. Clearly they've got their minds on finishing asap and don't want anything to jeopardize getting over the next 2 stages whilst it's light. Hot chips only at the next stop..."
Fields - oh so many fields. And hills. Fences. Stiles. Oh - and rain - lots of rain. The next section to Malham was wet, windy and miserable. We reached The Lister Arms in Malham (c. 80 miles) after about 31 hours. Into the pub we went to dry off, feed up and warm up. My left knee was beginning to hurt and whilst I don't usually medicate I knew I needed something to keep going. Codeine it was - that would keep me going! Oh and some pro plus for good measure! Nicks update from Malham:
"Tough going. The 3 amigos turned up at the pub at malham looking a bit knackered. 3 bowls of chips, coffee, full fat coke & pro plus. Simon lies down across the whole window seat, nobody is saying much anyway. Attempted to dry their clothes around the fire and using the hand dryer in the gents. Plessant people in the pub, but far too talkative when you're knackered, in a nice northern way, just keen to know what you're doing, where you're from etc... It's difficult to get going again when you struggle to pick up your poles and put new layers on but they're doing ok."
Leaving The Lister Arms I was fu&@ed! My legs hurt, my left knee was locked up and I was mentally low for the first time in the race.
Malham Cove is beautiful - the climb up it at this point in the race was not. Onwards and upwards we went to Malham Tarn and CP1.5. The support crew once again here were brilliant - tea and chocolate. A little boost! They also told us at this point that due to the weather conditions we would not be going over Pen-y-Ghent. A tiny weeny little bit of me was disappointed. A massive chunk of me was relieved - especially given the state of my left knee!
It was also around this time that some proper hallucinations started. I have often read about people hallucinating during long races from sleep deprivation but considered it was just bollocks - turns out it isn't. During the course of the night I had to deal with trees and rocks turning into people and monsters. Kept me on my toes!
Back into the darkness we went - just Fountains Fell to navigate then. Or Fountains Hell as we renamed it. Up and up we went and then up some more. The weather was awful - the worst we had so far! Head down - focus on the head light, one foot in front of the other. Eventually we levelled off and then came the descent - my knee hurt more. After the brief climb to the foot of Pen-y-Ghent, the descent to Horton-in-Ribblesdale followed. Pain shooting through my left knee - every step hurt. And then my lower legs just went completely numb - this was new (and worrying). I seemed to have lost all feeling in my lower legs! A rest was needed. Nicks update from Horton after c. 95 miles and c. 39 hours:
"Hardest slog. They arrived at 2230, in a nutshell: knackered. Rob jumped straight in the car, Simon ate, seb politely stood around waiting for an invitation to get in the car. He didn't hesitate. Simon said that stage was the hardest endurance / ultra / anything he's ever done. He broke his pole again, the ungrateful little [CONTENT HAS BEEN REMOVED]. Rob was cold but soon warmed up with hot tea and chicken tikka (he even asked for more and for car heater to be turned off, so he's back on form). Simon ate curry and choc pudding, seb ate curry too. Everyone had lucozade and drugs. Getting out of the car 50 minutes later was sluggish because joints had stopped working, straps were awkward, clips wouldn't clip, but with reloaded water, snacks, sweets and batteries, they were keen to set off again, undoubtedly because they knew it was the last leg. They speculated it might take 12 hours; Conditions are blooming tough out there, at least it wasn't raining when they set off, but they were all layered up well."
Off into the night we went for what was to be the final leg of our journey. Just 15 miles to go...
The terrain from Horton to Hawes was actually pretty good. The weather was the worst that had hit us so far! Unbelievable. An update from Nick who came to check on us somewhere near Cam Road:
"Wow it's windy - just met the guys about midway between the last supply point and the finish. I drove to the finish and it was a steady ascent by road to the midway point followed by a sudden massive climb to the peak of the leg. I let a lone runner into the car who put another layer on from his bag. The wind is phenomenal, they didn't stop. A few more hours to go....".
The wind got worse as went entered the final 4-5 miles over Dodd Fell... and dangerous. I have no idea what the wind speeds were (possibly 80-90mph), but the gusts were knocking us off our feet and visibility was down to a few feet. It is not often I get scared by weather but this was different - we needed to get down and fast... We were soaked through, there was no shelter and wind chill was cold! It was like the race was throwing everything it had at us in one final attempt to break us and stop us from finishing. Those final 3 miles were the worst of the race by a stretch...!
Finally we reached Hawes. Such is the ethos of the race that there were no banners or fanfare. We simply walked into the hall and sat down. It was done.
A final update from Nick:
"2 decrepit blokes have just hobbled into Travelodge Kendal services. Neither can make use of hips, knees, ankles or any of their lower bodies. Simon limps in first, grappling anything that will hold him upright. Receptionist: "oh my god, do you need a doctor? Rob is in a similar state of incapacity but doesn't whinge."
Big thanks go to Nick (legend), the entire Spine support / MST team, Robbie Britton for coaching (and tips) and everyone who supported along the way! Special thanks go to my wife Caoimhe and the rest of my family for putting up with my follies.
From a personal perspective it was nice to end my "running" year on a high. It has been a mixed year - a good run at Country to Capital, DNF at Transvulcania, finish but rubbish performance at Mourne Ultra, reasonable run at Race to the Stones and similar unsatisfactory finish at Mourne Skyrace. The major thing that I have struggled with is pacing and nutrition - for the Spine Challenger this was spot on (apart from the hick up from Malham to Horton).
Massive respect to all of the Challengers that competed and the full Spiners that are still going. Never again...
Kit Summary:
Montane Dragon 20 Backpack - Excellent waterproof bag and at only c. 350g super lightweight. You need to use a bladder as well as bottles on front to carry enough water. Just enough room for a supported run but if doing unsupported then I would want something bigger. Also used the Montane Bite 1 as a front pouch for snacks etc. which worked well.
Montane Prism Jacket - really like this jacket. Worked pretty well. Light, compressible to stash in bag, nice and warm and good hood. Zips broke in last few miles in strong winds which wasn't ideal (could just be a one-off).
Montane Fireball Smock - wow. Have always loved this bit of kit. Super warm!
Montane Prism Pants - like walking in an oven! Put these on at night and almost too warm... wow again!
Montane Minimus Smock - didn't take this bit of kit off except to dry. Great bit of kit.
Montane Minimus Pants - worked well. Super lightweight and legs didn't get wet once.
Montane Prism Gloves - used two pairs during the race. Hands were never cold and at just 30g it is easy to stash another pair in your bag. Wore Mammut Stretch gloves as a base glove and rotated between two pairs of these as well. Would also highly recommend.
Scott Off Grid goggles - purchased these in the days running up to the race. Was originally going to use sunglasses with low light lenses, but boy am I glad I bought these! Invaluable in the strong winds, rain, hail and snow! Would have otherwise been blind.
Inov-8 Roclite 235's - love these shoes. Not my normal shoe (which are the Trailrocs), but Roclites gave a little extra cushioning. Stood up to the test well and I didn't slip or fall over. Would probably want something with more cushioning for full Spine.
LED lensor SE07r - strong headtorch. Battery life was only c. 5-6 hours max which was a bit of a pain.
Garmin Etrex 30 - worked brilliantly. Go to GPS unit for me.
Suunto Ambit 3 - didn't use apart from using the map to double check route at some stages and for some easier night navigation. Love this watch!
Alpkit Kraku Micro Stove - weights literally nothing and fits in palm of your hand. Didn't need to use (which was the plan). Would probably use Jetboil if doing unsupported.
RAB 2014 Infinity 300 sleeping bag - lightweight and super warm. Limit extreme rating of -18 degrees and just 650g. Also had the Karrimor X-Lite Bivi bag. Just £15 from Sports Direct and only 130g.